7.11.2011

Erfurt & Berlin Germany

July 6th - 11th

I left Paris, and boarded my train for Frankfurt/Erfurt. I had a stop over in Frankfurt for a couple of hours, so I could tour the city. The train was really nice, fast and super easy. I got to Frankfurt, looked around for some place to store my luggage, decided that was too complicated and instead just lugged it around with me. I walked towards downtown, where I sat in a small square for a while people watching and enjoying the beautiful day. Some older gentleman came up and we had a nice conversation in English - since all I know in German is 'danke schön' (dunke sheon meaning thank you very much) and guten tag (hello/good day) also Auf Wiedersehen -- from the song 'good-bye, fair well, auf wiedersehen I love you....' So Frankfurt was nice, but it was a pain having to lug my stuff around with me the whole time. After a few hours I walked back to the train station and waited for my train to take me to Erfurt to meet up with my good friend Jan. I met Jan while studying abroad in South Africa. We hung out quite a bit -- took a road trip to Cape Town together, he taught me how to drive stick (on the right side of the car/road!) and taught me some German and some how to cook! I was so excited to see him (although it had only been a little over a week since we had left each other in Africa!) But all excitement ended when I realized my South African phone had gone missing from the outside pocket of my book bag and also a memory card. I had a panic attack thinking I had lost a lot of pictures. I whipped out my computer and started searching seeing if I thought there were any pictures missing. When I figured out none were missing, I was able to breath again. However, I was still upset to lose my phone since that was how I told the time and also my alarm clock since my American one was basically only a contact book! Nonetheless I arrived safely in Erfurt about 11 pm. I was exhausted but was so thankful to see Jan! He took me to his parents house where I stay for the next 3 nights.


Erfurt.

He took me around the town - to see old buildings (Europe is filled with old buildings around 4 times older than our country!) It's quite impressive. Large churches are also plentiful. We stopped by an ice cream shop where we had a ridiculous amount of ice cream! :) We walked down by a small river, where there were houses built over the water. It was quite strange and hard to explain. I also learned that German's are a bit annal about their trash and such. If they are caught littering, it is at least a 200 dollar fine. They also can't put their glass recyclables (which they must recycle EVERYTHING!) in the bins past like 9 pm because it will disturb the peace. I also tagged along with Jan to the mall so he could get a few things. We also went in to a travel agency. The lady in their had her baby and mother with her as well. I was looking at the baby a lot, making faces or doing who knows what and before I know it the grandma takes the baby and plops him on my lap! She didn't speak a word of English and Jan just sat their dumbfounded. I had no idea what to do or say... so I played with him for a little bit (not really saying any words - because 1. he was about 1 and couldn't really talk and 2. if he did know words they were probably German). I just smiled a lot and bid them good-bye when they left. It was so strange but also amazing that she trusted a stranger (who doesn't speak the language) with her baby. And Jan was trying to tell me German people keep to themselves... this must have been an exception!

We also went to a concentration camp. Jan asked me, 'Kristen, would you like to go to a concentration camp?' I said 'Yes, wait I mean no but yes but no.' I didn't want to sound too excited but of course I wanted to see and experience one first hand. We drove about an hour out of his city to the nearest concentration camp. On the we got McDonalds, which is actually rather classy and pretty high quality. I got a veggie burger, and it was pleasant! I will never forget when Jan told me that he worked at McDonalds.. I started to laugh since in the states we make fun of MD workers - flippin' burgers. He went on to explain to me it was a really good job and the food was actually decent there. His little brother works at one in Erfurt - where we stopped by and said hello. Jan made me order myself so I used English! His brother's English is great so it was fine. Anyway back to the Buchenwald concentration camp. We arrived and walked in and started to wonder around the site. Most of the building had been torn down, it was just different colored stones showing where the buildings were. It was so eery and quiet.. there were so many emotions running through my head. I didn't know what to think or how to feel. So many people were tortured and murder on the ground beneath my feet. The camp was not that far off the road or that out of site. How could so many people not know or not care what was happening at these camps. It's hard for me to fully grasp what all went on and why, but being there was good. It was good to witness firsthand a huge part of history and to see the exact place where Hitler's regime killed and tortured so many. Not to just see it in an American text book or what a film about it but stand where it happened. However, it was horrifying and I didn't know what to say most of the time, so I stood in silence. As we were walking to see where they would burn the bodies, there was an elderly woman on the ground. There were a few people around her looking frantic; I could tell something was wrong. I looked to Jan for some understanding and he said I think she is having a heart attack. I know CPR.. but would I be able to help? I don't speak German. I was so terrified and didn't know what to do or say. I saw there was a lady there who looked like she knew what she was doing. We were rushed into the furnace room with a high school group so we could be out of the way. After awhile we were ready to leave so we walked back out and noticed they were doing CPR on her. The ambulance still hadn't arrived. It was so sad. I was already emotional from being at the camp and then to witness someone having a heart attack it was almost too much for me to handle. Jan, being mr. calm and collected said, 'It's ok Kristen. Those things happen and she was pretty old anyway.' I said but still it is so sad and what about all her family. I will never forget that day, for many reasons. I learned a lot that day.

I spent a night in with Jan's parents, while he went out to a friend's birthday party. I was ok with it since I would be the odd one out not knowing anyone and their language! His parents had been a little shy to try to speak English with Jan around but when he left they tried a lot more. We ended up having a long conversation about their vacation to Florida in the states. I made sure to speak really slowly to make sure they understood. We were communicated fairly well.. the only issue I had was when they were trying to tell me they went 'wall watching.' I was so confused by this - who would watch walls? They had to get out their picture album for me to realize they were talking about whales! It was a very relaxing night and was good to get to know his parents a little. I found out later from Jan that his parents really enjoyed it and said I was so patient with them and was very easy to understand. I was thrilled that I left a good impression. I told Jan their English was very good - so they should have nothing to worry about or be ashamed of!


Berlin. 

So there is this cool thing in Germany called ride-share (or something to that effect). Basically you get on a website, find someone who is going where you want to go and has extra room, contact them, find a meeting place and you're on your way! Creepy - nope not at all, especially since we were riding with 2 girls. We met up and were on our way. We drove on the Autobahn and who really knows how fast we went - probably pretty fast. When we got to Berlin we hoped on a underground train to go to Jan's cousins' place to set our stuff down. That night we went down by a river (I believe) and hung out outside. Pretty sure I was freezing - summer in Europe is quite strange. It is not all that warm. The next day we took a tour bus (hop on hop off) all over Berlin. We saw parts of the Berlin Wall, Check Point Charley and Brandenburg Gate. Seeing the wall was interesting and seeing the plain architecture style of Hitler's time. It was sort of terrifying and un-comprehendable to stand at the site where a huge wall stood splitting the city into two parts. On a lighter note, I watched a couple of people make unbelievably large bubbles. I stood there in awe for a good 20 minutes at least - but since I had lost my phone I had no sense or care for time! I also had a Döner Kabob - they are delicious. Pretty much a big pita filled with meet and sauce and veggies. Plus they are cheap and sold by street venders (well.. still sort of expensive for me with my weak American dollar - but whatever!)


I had an amazing time in Germany thanks to my good friend Jan and his family :) I hope to visit again sometime soon! It felt a lot like home really. Small towns, lots of farming, friendly people (just super duper German). I mean I guess I am mostly German so maybe that played a role as well.. who knows.


Then I was off to Switzerland to visit Karine and Kilijan near Geneva! I flew out form Berlin on the 11th in the evening. 

7.06.2011

Paris, France


July 4th – 6th.

I got to Paris at a decent hour, giving me enough time to make it to my hostel (mind you I was staying in a Korean hostel – it was the cheapest and they gave you breakfast and dinner.. PERFECT FREE FOOD!!) At the airport I made sure to get a map and asked the information desk tons of questions. I was not about to ask a mean French person how to get anywhere. I was terrified of them! I got on the train and was headed towards the hostel (or so I hoped). I had to transfer trains once but I managed. I got to the end of the line, walked up the stairs and was immediately lost. So I stood there for a second waiting and looking around. I was hoping it would just click which way I had to go. I re-read the directions like 12 times. I started to walk and a guy came up to me (he was on the same underground train as me I am pretty sure). He asked if I needed help. I showed him the name of a couple of streets, which were written on my paper. He looked at them and then he started making hand gestures. I sort of got what he was saying.. so off I went trying to figure it out. I was like well I am just going to walk in this direction and hope and pray I find it! I acted like I knew right where I was going. I passed by a group of a bunch of hoodlums, but I wasn’t scared. I learned that confidence is necessary when traveling alone. I never acted lost (even when I had no clue where I was or what was going on). I just walked and pretended. It was all starting to come together. The directions made sense and I was coming to the correct roads. I was going to find it! I finally got there and I rang the bell for them to let me in. A cute little Korean came to let me in. I got checked in and she gave me a room. It was on the first floor with 3 other people, who I didn’t know. I got a tour and then I asked where I could get food. It was almost 10 o’clock and I was starving. She explained where the nearest grocery store was but that it closed in 20 minutes.

I was on a mission. I needed food and NOW. I practically ran to the store. I got there and they were starting to close up. All I wanted was some soymilk and cereal. That is all oh and maybe some fruit (apples and bananas). I found the cereal, no problem. It was the soymilk that was hard. So I headed for the milk that was on the shelf. That was usually where the soymilk was kept. However it seemed to me (in my little – I mean no knowledge of French) that it was all real milk. I couldn’t have that. The store lights kept going off and they might have made an announcement. I was determined to find it. So I tried to ask this nice lady who was shopping. She had no idea what I was trying to say. So her boyfriend (who knows maybe it was her brother) came over and he understood what I wanted. He just didn’t know where it was. He tried to ask a worker and he didn’t know either (at least that is what I caught – almost all of this was going on in French – I was just reading body language and the listening to some broken English). Finally as they were practically kicking us out, another worker knew right where it was. He took me to a cooler – lifted the curtain and there it was the oh so glorious milk that would not make me keel over. I was so thankful and joyous, I could have kissed the man. I said merci like 20 times, checked out and walked back to the hostel. I had a massive bowl of cereal and was happy. Life was good.

The next day my plan was to hit up all the major museums (since it was my only full day in Paris). I started walking around, I first hit up the Notre Dame Cathedral. Then I was on to the Louvre. When I got there I noticed that it was closed. What? I thought they were all closed on Mondays, not on Tuesdays. Turns out all the major museums are closed on Tuesdays. I tried like 3 different ones. ALL were closed. I was so disappointed but I just went to what I could. I would pull out my map and say ok. Here is where I am going next and start walking. I made it to the Arch de Triumph and the Eiffel Tower. I walked and walked and walked and walked some more. I never took the bus or trains or anything. I had my Camelbak backpack on (actually the knock-off brand from walmart but whatever) full of water and some snacks, and I was off and on a mission. I was bound and determined to see all of Paris in a day and a half. I got back that evening in time for the free Korean dinner. I was pretty good (I now know I can probably survive in Korea and not starve! Haha). After dinner I started talking to some Americans who were also staying at the hostel and we decided we needed to see the Eiffel tower at night. So a small group of us headed to the train. I immediately started booking it and one of the guys were with started making fun of my fast pace. I said lets go we’ve got things to see. He was like.. ‘ok you are one of those crazy tourists’ and I said I guess I am. Although their pace was much slower I forced myself to calm down and just take it in. We finally made it to the tower. I was so pretty at night! It was all lit up and the sun was just setting so the sky was a pretty dark blue color. Every hour, on the hour it twinkles. It is spectacular. A few of the people decided to go up it. I didn’t want to pay to go up it so me and 2 others decided to go look at it from a distance. We crossed the street, walked up some steps (they were steps of some museum I think) and just looked and watched. I took a billion pictures. We waited for it to twinkle again and then we headed back to wait for the others. I don’t exactly remember if we found them or not. We might have headed back on our own because we were sick of waiting.

The next day I got up early because I had to see the Louvre and the Pompidou all before 2 when my train left for Germany. If that kid thought I walked fast the night before he hadn’t seen anything. I had to take my suitcase with me.. so I was speed walking with all my belongings around Paris. I took the train to the Louvre stop and stood in line. I was lucky and had a pass, which allowed me to skip most of the line. But I still had to go through security. I checked my suitcase and then headed for the Mona Lisa – yes I was that tourist but only because I had to be. I had no time! The Louvre is sooooo freaking massive. I had no idea where anything was. There were like 3 different wings all filled with different types of art. I didn’t even know where the Mona Lisa was, but then I realized I bet if I follow this massive clump of people – they will lead me to her. I was right. They also had signs posted everywhere leading people to her. I don’t understand why that is the only piece of art people know – but it is. I finally made it and there she was a small painting behind thick pieces of glass on the far wall. There were at least 100 people in that small room all looking. I made my way to the front of the room so I could see her. I looked for a couple of minutes. Yup that was the oh so famous Mona Lisa. Took a couple of pictures and then turned around and probably took more pictures of the crowd then of her. They were way more interesting (at least to me). Different races, cultures all with their point and shoot or DSLR cameras taking pictures of the Mona Lisa. I honestly wonder how many photographs have been taken of her. Actually I bet it would make me sick! After wards I took a peak around the rest of the museum (actually only like one other small section) but it was all I had time for. I tried to enjoy but I was so rushed and scared to miss my train and I couldn’t really enjoy.

I decided to move on and make it to the Pompidou (the modern art museum). It is one where the insides are on the outside… so like the staircases are all on the outsides so when you ride the escalator you can see out and people can see you. It is an interesting building almost looks like a mouse cage with tones of tunnels and weird things going on. Haha Anyway I check my bag there as well and started running around the different floors. I immediately wished I had more time there. I LOVED it. The art there was spectacular and was super modern. I didn’t really think I like modern art all that much – but I like the art in that museum. I made it to most of the floors and finally decided I had to leave so I could be sure and make it to the train on time. I got directions from one of the workers (because they are required to know English and be helpful and not hate on me for not knowing their so awesome French language – or so they think haha). I made it to the train station on time, found my train. Phew I had done it. I had pretty much seen Paris in a day and a half. Good work me!

7.03.2011

Barcelona, Spain

June 29th - July 4th


I flew into Barcelona on June 29th  and arrived in the late afternoon (still enough time to hopefully get to my hostel before dark). I had the details printed out of how to get to the hostel, since I knew internet would be hard to find and a printer – even harder. I got some information from the information desk and figured out how to get into the city from the airport. When I got off of the train, I tried to understand the directions (which were sort of vague and also used a lot of directions – which for someone who is not very good at directions in the first place and who is in a completely new place and country for that matter – this was NOT helpful.) I tried to use my broken Spanish to ask for some help but that didn’t go over to well. I asked a cute old couple and they didn’t know where I needed to go and didn’t know English. I caught a little of what they were talking about in Spanish and just decided to try to wonder around on my own until I found what I needed. The Lord must have been on my side because I finally found the Bus number that I needed. It was so complicated. There are 50 different bus stops and they all had different numbers on them and had no directions or hints as to where the bus stops were with the numbers that I needed. I found the stop and waited for the bus (59 I think). The bus pulls up and I decide to be smart and ask the man about the street that I was supposed to get off of. He looked at me blankly – oh it must be my American Spanish that he can’t understand. So I showed him the paper, which had the Spanish name of the street and he said no se. He didn’t know where that street was. Are you kidding me? I am going to be lost in Barcelona. I sat down – just hoping that maybe this bus would somehow lead me to the hostel. After a couple more stops the bus driver asked a lady who got on some question and was pointing in my direction. I didn’t have a clue about what was happening but then the lady walked up to me and started speaking to me. I had to really focus to understand what was going on. Spain Spanish is so different than the Spanish I learned, and it had been years since I really practiced it. So I was struggling, but through hand motions and me responding with some Si y No. I figured out I was to follow her because she was getting off at the same stop. ALLELUJIA. This was a miracle. She motioned to me as she started to push her baby stroller off of the bus. I hopped up, grabbed my small carry-on luggage and followed. She motioned for me to go a la derecha y a la izquierda. I knew what those meant and I understood by hand motions. I walked and walked as the sun was starting to set, hoping that this lady knew where my hostel was and indeed she did. I was so thankful for her and the Lord for watching over me. I checked in, placed my things in my room and hung around the hostel. I got on the internet to let my family know that I had made it, talked with some fellow hostel mates about where they were from and were going, and called it a night.

The next morning I got up, got ready and started trying to figure out where and what I was going to do in Barcelona. To tell you the truth I really didn’t know anything about the city. I just heard it was a great place – beautiful and it had awesome beaches. I said sign me up! Well that morning I met a girl named Logan and her sister Liza. They were from Chicago and were backpacking around Europe for a month and a half. They asked if I would like to join them for the day. They weren’t for sure what they were doing but I said sure. I would much rather be with someone in Barcelona than alone – since I had heard it wasn’t the safest place. And I soon found out that was the truth. We took off to see Guadi’s park. It was a somewhat of a short walk so we decided to get some exercise instead of taking a bus. On our walk we stopped for some lunch and continued on our way. What we didn’t realize was that there was a mountain we had to climb to get there – ok maybe that is an exaggeration, but to a girl from Iowa it might have well been a mountain. We made it to the top huffing and puffing but continued and started our walk through the park. We stopped to see some green parakeet looking birds that were feeding on some bread that had been thrown out. I had never seen green birds in the wild – so this of course fascinated us tourists. After about 15 minutes we continued our journey to only get pooped on. It was a green sticky nasty poop and was all over us – in our hair, on our bags and all over our clothes. We looked up and didn’t really see any birds, but I figured they must have flown away. These two nice Spanish ladies walked up and offered us tissues (baby wipes) and helped us clean ourselves. We told them gracias after they helped us for several minutes and were finally out of baby wipes. They went their way and we went ours. A few minutes later two girls were running towards us saying they took your money, check your wallets. I didn’t believe them, but decided to check anyway. Sure enough all of my cash had been taken – even the South African rand that I had been saving. All of my cards were still there it was just the cash that was gone. I was devastated and then my stomach dropped. What if they took my passport? That was the next thing I checked. Thank goodness it was still there. I never knew whether to take it or leave it in the hostel. But I had brought it with me that day and could have cried I was so thankful they hadn’t taken it! We didn’t know what to do or think or even say. We started to run in the direction they went but found nothing. These ladies were good. We had never once set our bags down and there were 3 of us and 2 of them but they somehow distracted us enough to steal our money out of our wallets and put them back. All in all I was soooo thankful I only lost about 70 Rand (10 dollars) and around 20 Euro or less so around 30 dollars.

The rest of the day we spent looking at the amazing Gaudi Park and the intricate things he created in it. We also saw buildings he designed and went to the Sagrada Familia. La Sagrada Familia is a spectacular cathedral that is still being constructed. The interior is basically complete but the outside will not be finished until 2026. It will tower above the other buildings and is so unique in its design. It is modern, funky and colorful. Gaudi was truly spectacular and absolutely unique. It is a must see if you are ever in Barcelona. I hope to return when it is finished one day!

The other 3 days were filled with wondering, seeing the market off of la Rambla, watching a spectacular water show up on the hill that over looked the city, taking pictures of a couple who we watched get engaged, and spent a whole day at the beach with many topless women and naked children. Downtown was filled with color, loud noises and scam artists trying to get you to bet on their games. We walked up and down the main strip taking in all of the happenings and also walked around the famous market off of la Rambla (which is the main drag where everything happens!). It was filled with color, smells, raw meats, foods, fruit drinks and everything and anything you could think of. It was so great to have Liza and Logan with me when I was walking around. Liza had been there before so she sort of knew her way around. The water show we went to was spectacular. There were so many different colors and hundreds of people who came to watch it. It was also seeing a couple get engaged. I thought about telling them I could email the pictures to them – but then decided that would be a little weird. So now they are just up on facebook – and maybe one day they will stumble upon them!

The day at the beach was wonderful. We got up and headed that way – which took about an hour since our hostel was located way up on the hill away from the beach. When we got there it was already packed with people so we had to search for a place to sit. I immediately noticed all of the topless women that were roaming around. It was so interesting and a little disturbing to me, but I guess I just got used to it and tried not to stare too much. But I must say it was nice to not have to worry if anything was showing – because everyone else was showing all they had. It was very hippie-ish and I kind of liked it (after I got out of my closed, small town, American mind set). We sat there all afternoon. I swam in the ocean (yup topless once I got in). It was funny I had actually forgotten my swimsuit top – it was shipped home with all my other things – so I was in a sports bra. I had the urge to just take it off several times so that I could fit in – but decided against it until I hit the water and not many could see! It was liberating. That night I put tons of Aloe on. I had forgotten to lather up in a couple of places and it totally showed.

The last day was filled with packing and a little bit of wondering before we had to part. The girls had to get on a train and I had to get a bus/train ticket that would take me to the airport. Their line was super long so I said good-bye to them while they were still waiting in line! They were so great. I am so thankful and blessed to have found them. I honestly don’t know if I would have survived Barcelona with out them! I got to the airport (and I am pretty sure this was the airport that never once checked my passport – that is strange!) So I got on the plane and headed to Paris!